“WASHABLE” UNIFORM SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL

Band Uniforms must be completely washable and dryable in standard commercial and residential machines.  Jackets, trousers and other garments must meet exact standards of washability.  There will be no hair canvas or traditional hymo construction incorporated into this product.  Bidders may be asked to submit full samples that can be test washed by the owner.  Instructions for care must also be included.  Jackets will be available in an extended size range with special patterns to be provided for any jackets exceeding the standard silhouette.  Garment pieces shall be pressed and shaped to insure proper style and permanency of dimensions.  In addition, a final steam pressing shall be done before shipping allowing a true “ready to wear” condition upon receipt by the customer.  All garments must have sewn in size labels and numbered individually for identification purposes and for inventory control.  All orders must have a complete inventory or roster containing sizing information for each student and complete care and cleaning standards.

COAT SPECIFICATIONS

FABRIC

All jackets will be constructed from colorfast, fade and heat resistant, VISA treated, 100% polyester materials with flexible weave and allow ease of movement and accommodation of the elbow and armhole areas of the jacket.  These fabrics have a long life span and durability allowing them to endure machine washing and drying for extended periods of time.  Wool and wool blend materials are unacceptable as they are not suitable for washing.

PATTERNS

All patterns for this product will be marked, graded and cut using a computerized Gerber System to insure accuracy to 1/64 of an inch.  Patterns will cover a full range of sizes including male, female, short, regular, long and extra long.  Sizes will be 26 to 60 with special patterns to accommodate sizes outside of this normal range.  Jackets will have incorporated into them a full cut for ease of fitting.  Properly designed, full cut coat patterns are to be used to increase flexibility of fit.  Basic patterns for construction of a jacket consist of separate pieces for front, back, sleeves and collar.  The fabric is to be cut from a full range of sizes utilizing computerized Gerber systems for accuracy to 1/64 per inch.  Seams connecting the major parts shall be safety lock stitched and serged to prevent raveling.  Coat back is tailored with either a two-piece or four-piece back to facilitate insertion of contrasting color panels, etc.

SHOULDER LOOPS

Shoulder Loops when indicated in the styling specifications are to be dye cut to insure uniformity and cut in two pieces.  Shoulder loops will be sewn together on the inside, turned and topstitched all around the edge for body and durability.

SHOULDER EXTENSIONS

All shoulder extensions or canopies must be double stitched and back stitched to the face of the coat, butted to the armhole and stitched at all stress points.  Shoulder extensions may not impose into the armhole or impede arm motion in anyway.

COLLARS

Collars will incorporate a soft standing military style collar utilizing coat quality fabric.  Flexible heat set materials are strengthened with straight stitch edge stitching and center placed reinforcement stitching creating a standing shoulder extension collar containing no hard plastic or reinforcement pieces which may cause discomfort to the wearer or may not conform to washable standards.  All collars must be attached to the neckline of the coat through all layers of the collar, no free floating or enveloped construction is accepted.  Collars will be straight stitched together interlocked and understitched on the neckline seam face to insure proper sizing to fit, comfort and washability.  Collar liners are optional and available at customer’s request.  If such a liner is requested it will be constructed in the following manner.  It shall be cut and shaped to fit the curve of the collar.  The fabric used in the construction of these washable snap-in replaceable liners is two layers of 14 oz. polyester whipcord from Milliken Mills.  The fabric is readily washable and quite durable to withstand laundry procedures throughout the lifetime of the garment.  Fabric is also heavy enough to provide a substantial base for the female portion of the gripper snaps.  The top, bottom and rounded side edges of each snap-in collar liner will be bound with a finished binding made of Cramerton fabric with ends of the binding bartacked securely to prevent raveling.  There are seven gripper snaps built into each collar liner to secure it to the lining of the military collar.  Furthermore the snap-in liner will be positioned to allow a pin stripe edge of white to show above the whipcord collar fabric.  

SHOULDER PADS

 Shoulder pads are high quality and washable, measuring 10” in length, 5½ in width”, and  7/8” in thickness. It consists of completely washable foam components. The shoulder pads are designed to support the shoulder from collar to sleeve seam, as well as the entire upper jacket torso. This achieves the  “desired athletic appearance” to the coat. 

LINING

Coat linings are to be cut from a separate set of patterns designed specifically to fit the particular style of coat when requested.  Linings are not to be cut from coat patterns and then cut down. Lining material is to be the highest quality BreatheFree Poly Twill. It contains moisture absorbing properties with immediate dry component. It will be non-toxic, perspiration resistant, color fast, and non-shrinkable.  It is to be fully dry-cleanable and washable. Composition is to be 120 warp x 72 fill and is to meet government specifications.  There will be a pleat down the center back in the shoulder area to allow for proper fullness.  The lining will be completely sewn around the armhole not just tacked.

THREAD

All threading for seams is to be 50/30 cotton wrapped core thread, 70/20 poly wrap core thread or 100/2 poly wrap core thread based on the strength requirement of the intended seam.  All threads are to be heat resistant, vat dyed, sunfast, moisture proof and completely washable.

SLEEVES

Sleeves are to be felled into the top of the armhole using a special felling stitch that allows fullness, evenness, flexibility and strength.  The bottom half of the armhole is machine lock stitched to give the greatest strength in this high stress area.  Sleeves are to be cut utilizing a 60/40 pattern per fine tailoring standards.  They will be pitched forward 3 to 4 degrees in the armhole to allow for the arm lift associated with playing a musical instrument.  Cuffs or hem will have a generous 2 ½” turn up consisting of fabric and lining securely constructed to allow easy altering of sleeve length.  This is done utilizing an easy alter chain stitch. On request, an adjustable hem feature is available. The ridged/grooved polyester snap-tape shall extend from the bottom of the hem 7” with a total of 5 male snaps and 5 female snaps (10 total snaps) and will be centered on both seams. This allows a ½” of adjustability with each snap for a total adjustment capability of 4 ½”. The snap tape will be back-tacked on each end with a 3/8 – 1/2” tack. 

SEAMS

Jackets will be completely machine stitched except in areas where specific tailoring requires other methods.  The ends of all seams will be back stitched not less than ¼”.

BUTTONS

Buttons must be high quality buttons where specified and attached by backing buttons.  Buttons will have brass base tops and rust resistant backs.

ZIPPERS

Zippers are to be heavy-duty brass with auto locking pull slide.  Tape is to be 9/16 of an inch, zipper is to be bartacked top and bottom and sewn to facing surface not sandwiched between shell fabric and facing.  When requested nylon zippers will be used and will be YKK quality or equal.  All zippers will be completely washable for these products.

BIBBER/JUMPSUIT SPECIFICATIONS

Jumpsuit or “bibber” style trousers will be cut in a full length pattern, allowing extra fullness at the waist area to accommodate a generous fit throughout the range of sizes.  They will be adjustable at the shoulders by means of a one piece molded indestructible polymer slider. The slider shall be permanently fixed to the double ply shoulder straps, which are turned and finished.  Use of plastic sliders, buckles, and elastic in this area is NOT acceptable.

The center seam is sewn with using a special, highly durable cotton covered polyester thread.  All four major seams come together and comprise the crotch area; center back seam, the front fly seam, and the inseams from both legs of the trousers.

All seams shall be constructed in a safety serged or “blue jean” stitch, and all inseams shall be pressed open.  At the base of the fly area will be three bartacks for additional reinforcement; two vertical tacks on the lower front fly interior, and one horizontal at the bottom of the lower front fly exterior.  In keeping with maximum durability and trouble free maintenance, the front fly zipper must be SOLID BRASS.  It shall be YKK quality.  The bottom of the zipper is to be secured with a #3 hardened brass stop.

All jumpsuit legs shall be furnished at the bottom with a 3” turnunder to allow alterations for possible future growth.  Hems will be finished with a heavy duty preshrunk bias binding tape.  

On request, an adjustable hem feature is available. The ridged/grooved polyester snap-tape shall extend from the bottom of the hem 12” with a total of 11 male snaps and 11 female snaps (22 total snaps) and will be centered on both inseam and outseam. This allows a ½” of adjustability with each snap for a total of 11” of adjustability. The snap tape will back-tacked on each end with a 3/8 – 1/2” tack. Sideseams will be “clean finished”.

Striping is centered over the outseam, and NOT sewn into the seam.  Trim shall run the full length of the leg, including the turn up allowance at the bottom edge.  The hem will be taped all around with a pre-shrunk bias poly/cotton finishing tape.

The stripes and welts are to be finished “flat” at the cuff “turnunder” edge.  Stripes and welts which are folded under at this terminal end are NOT acceptable.

All edges of seams and outlets are to be serged in a professional, high quality manner, eliminating the possibility of raveling.  There shall be steam pressing to open all seams during construction, and also the final garment upon completion of the sewing process.

All jumpsuits are to be hand cut from both MALE AND FEMALE patterns.  There shall be two darts in the seat and waist area, measuring approximately 10” on a 38R sample.

ACCESSORIES

BALDRICS & SASHES

Fabric is based on design specifications and fabric choices.  Sizing must be determined according to jacket specifications coordinated to size and length.  Fabrics used are 100% washable VISA treated polyesters or other decorative fabrics upon request.

GAUNTLETS

Gauntlets and independent cuffs will be made from custom fabric options, sequin fabrics or others.  These items may not be washable as durability may be compromised.  Gauntlets made from 100% washable VISA treated polyester materials will be available and completely washable at customer’s request.  Gauntlets and independent cuffs must be made to design specifications and available in extended size fit and range – extra small, small, medium, large and extra large.  Gauntlets will use a ¾” Velcro closure hooking the outside angles together in conical format.  All edges will be bound.