UNCONSTRUCTED SPECIFICATIONS

Band Uniforms must be completely washable and dryable in standard commercial and residential machines.  Jackets, trousers and other garments must meet exact standards of washability.  There will be no hair canvas or traditional hymo construction incorporated into this product.  Bidders may be asked to submit full samples that can be test washed by the owner.  Instructions for care must also be included.  Jackets will be available in an extended size range with special patterns to be provided for any jackets exceeding the standard silhouette.  No size groupings such as small, medium and large, extra large, will be accepted.  

Jackets will have incorporated into them a full cut for ease of fitting.  Properly designed, full cut coat patterns are to be used to increase flexibility of fit.  Basic patterns for construction of a jacket consist of separate pieces for front, back, sleeves and collar.  The fabric is to be cut from a full range of sizes utilizing computerized Gerber systems for accuracy to 1/64 per inch.  Seams connecting the major parts shall be safety lock stitched and serged to prevent raveling.  

Collars will incorporate a soft standing military style collar utilizing coat quality fabric.  Flexible heat set materials are strengthened with straight stitch edge stitching and center placed reinforcement stitching creating a standing shoulder extension collar containing no hard plastic or reinforcement pieces which may cause discomfort to the wearer or may not conform to washable standards.  All collars must be attached to the neckline of the coat through all layers of the collar, no free floating or enveloped construction is accepted.  Collars will be straight stitched together innerlocked and understitched on the neckline seam face to insure proper sizing to fit, comfort and washability.  Collar liners are optional and available at customer's request.  If such a liner is requested it will be constructed in the following manner.  It shall be cut and shaped to fit the curve of the collar.  The fabric used in the construction of these washable snap-in replaceable liners is two layers of 14 oz. polyester whipcord from Milliken Mills.  The fabric is readily washable and quite durable to withstand laundry procedures throughout the lifetime of the garment.  Fabric is also heavy enough to provide a substantial base for the female portion of the gripper snaps.  The top, bottom and rounded side edges of each snap-in collar liner will be bound with a finished binding made of Cramerton fabric with  ends of the binding bartacked securely to prevent raveling.  There are seven gripper snaps built into each collar liner to secure it to the lining of the military collar.  Furthermore the snap-in liner will be positioned to allow a pin stripe edge of white to show above the whipcord collar fabric.  

Shoulder Loops when indicated in the styling specifications are to be dye cut to insure uniformity and cut in two pieces.  Shoulder loops will be sewn together on the inside, turned and top stitched all around the edge for body and durability.

Garment pieces shall be pressed and shaped to insure proper style and permanency of dimensions.  In addition a final steam pressing shall be done before shipping allowing a true ready to wear condition upon receipt by the customer.  

All shoulder extensions or canopies must be double stitched and back stitched to the face of the coat, butted to the armhole and stitched at all stress points.  Shoulder extensions may not impose into the armhole or impede arm motion in anyway.  

All jackets will be constructed from colorfast, fade and heat resistant, VISA treated, 100% polyester materials with flexible weave and allow ease of movement and accommodation of the elbow and armhole areas of the jacket.  These fabrics have a long life span and durability allowing them to endure machine washing and drying for extended periods of time.  Wool and wool blend materials are unacceptable as they are not suitable for washing.  

Shoulder pads are high quality, washable, 7 1/2" x 4 1/2", 3/4" thickness, consisting of washable foam materials.  

Coat linings are to be cut from a separate set of patterns designed specifically to fit the particular style of coat when requested.  Linings are not to be cut from coat patterns and then cut down.  Lining materials are to be the highest quality polyester twill non-toxic, perspiration resistant, colorfast, non-shrinkable and fully washable.  Composition is to be 120 warp x 72 fill and is to meet government specifications.  There will be a pleat down the center back in the shoulder area to allow for proper fullness.  The lining will be completely sewn around the armhole not just tacked.  

Sleeves are to be felled into the top of the armhole using a special felling stitch which allows  fullness, evenness, flexibility and strength.  The bottom half of the armhole is machine lock stitched to give the greatest strength in this high stress area.  Sleeves are to be cut utilizing a 60/40 pattern per fine tailoring standards.  They will be pitched forward 3 to 4 degrees in the armhole to allow for the arm lift associated with playing a musical instrument.  Cuffs or hem will have a generous 2 1/2" turn up consisting of fabric and lining securely constructed to allow easy altering of sleeve length.  This is done utilizing an easy alter chain stitch.  

Jackets will be completely machine stitched except in areas where specific tailoring requires other methods.  The ends of all seams will be back stitched not less than 1/4".  

Coat back is tailored with either a two piece or four piece back to facilitate insertion of contrasting color panels, etc.  

All threading for seams is to be 50/30 cotton wrapped core thread, 70/20 poly wrap core thread or 100/2 poly wrap core thread based on the strength requirement of the intended seam.  All threads are to be heat resistant, vat dyed, sunfast, moisture proof and completely washable.  

Zippers are to be heavy duty brass with auto locking pull slide.  Tape is to be 9/16 of an inch,  zipper is to be bartacked top and bottom and sewn to facing surface not sandwiched between shell fabric and facing.  When requested nylon zippers will be used and will be YKK quality or equal.  All zippers will be completely washable for these products.  

Buttons must be high quality buttons where specified and attached by backing buttons.  Buttons will have brass base tops and rust resistant backs.  

All patterns for this product will be marked, graded and cut using a computerized Gerber System to insure accuracy to 1/64 of an inch.  Patterns will cover a full range of sizes including male, female, short, regular, long and extra long.  Sizes will be 26 to 60 with special patterns to accommodate sizes outside of this normal range. 

Bib Trousers - pant patterns will offer both male and female design to insure appropriate fit.  All bibs will be cut into a full length pattern allowing extra fullness at the waist area to accommodate a generous fit throughout the range of sizes.  There are to be two darts in the seat and waist area measuring approximately 10" on a 38 regular sample.  

Jumpsuits are to be adjustable at the shoulders by means of a one piece molded indestructible polymer slider.  Slider is to be permanently affixed to the double ply shoulder straps.  Straps are turned and finished with a lock stitch on each edge set in 1/8".  Width of shoulder strap is to measure no less than 1 1/2" and to be a minimum of 14" in length for maximum adjustability.  Special survivor lock features made of 100% indestructible nylon are available upon request.  

The upper portion of the jumpsuit is to have a generous interfacing front and back with all exposed fabric edges tightly serged to prevent raveling.  On the front closure on the inside of the right fly is to be lined with a layer of durable polyester cotton material.  It is to extend beyond the four way crotch assembly.  The left fly will be reinforced to provide permanent shape retention and durability and bound with a preshrunk bias cut tape for appearance and durability.  There will be three bartacks at the base of the fly for additional reinforcement, two vertical tacks on the lower front fly interior and one horizontal bartack at the bottom of the lower front fly exterior.  Fly zipper is to be solid brass YKK quality.  There is a to be a #3 hardened brass wire stop at the base of the zipper.  

All Bib Trousers will be constructed from colorfast, fadeout, heat resistant, 100% polyester, VISA treated materials.  

The fly front is to be secured at the top of the waistband with two stainless steel gripper snaps placed above the zipper terminal.  Hook-flex is also available if requested.  

Crotch area is reinforced consisting of 50/50% polyester cotton pocketing cut on the bias for strength.  There are to be four two ply sections one on each side of the fly, seat seam and inseams.  Crotch area is to be clean finished with no extra fabric extending from the top of the inseams.  

Trouser legs are to be finished at the bottom with a 3" turn under to allow alteration for future growth.  The legs are cut straight down from the knee resulting in a circumference of 19" at the finished bottom on a standard sample size.  The outseam of each trouser leg is to be a triple safety serged seam.  This type of seam is much stronger than a traditional busted seam and adds strength and stability to the side of the trouser leg.  The inseam of each leg is flat pressed whereby both ends of the fabric are lock stitched together and pressed flat.  All edges of seams and outlets are to be serged in a professional, high quality manner eliminating the possibility of raveling.  Threads for seaming are to be 50/3 cotton wrapped core, 70/2 poly wrap core or 100/2 poly wrap core.  Based on the strength requirements of the type of seams.  

FOB watch pockets when specified are to be the same precreased pocket and are bartacked at the two upper corners.  Pocketing material is 70/3 poly cotton, 50/50 warp and 100% poly in the fil.  Pockets constructed in a sandwiched or bagged fashion are unacceptable.

Trouser legs may be left serged and unhemmed at customer request.  Ample length will be on all trouser legs for economical hemming and easy change for reissue purposes by the customer.

Baldrics and Sashes - Fabric is based on design specifications and fabric choices.  Sizing must be determined according to jacket specifications coordinated to size and length.  Fabrics used are 100% washable VISA treated polyesters or other decorative fabrics upon request.  

Gauntlets and independent cuffs will be made from custom fabric options, sequin fabrics or others.  These items may not be washable as durability may be compromised.  Gauntlets made from 100% washable VISA treated polyester materials  will be available and completely washable at customer's request.  Gauntlets and independent cuffs must be made to design specifications and available in extended size fit and range - extra small, small, medium, large and extra large.  Gauntlets will use a 3/4" velcro closure hooking the outside angles together in conical format.  All edges will be bound.  

All garments must have sewn in size labels and numbered individually for identification purposes and for inventory control.  All orders must have a complete inventory or roster containing sizing information for each student and complete care and cleaning standards.