OVERLAY SPECIFICATIONS

1.	PATTERNS
a.	Overlays are to be cut according to specific overlay patterns that are designed to fit coat patterns.

b.	Patterns are to be marked, graded, and cut utilizing a computerized system to insure accuracy.

2.	HARD COLLAR   (see illustration #1)
a.	The inner core foundation of the standing collar is .014 Mylar.

b.	There is a laminated layer of non-woven Pellon P15 on the inboard side of the entire foundation.

c.	A stainless steel riveted hook and eye is to be the front closure.  The hook and eye are riveted through the Mylar, Pellon and two layers of collar lining material.  It is to be placed at the optimum angle to insure proper tension and comfort.

d.	A “sewn” hook and eye is not acceptable.

e.	The collar lining consists of two layers of Burlington Mills Cramerton fabric, which is 65% polyester and 35% combed cotton, pre shrunk and non-wicking.

f.	Seven male gripper snaps are placed through both layers of the collar lining material.  The snaps are supported on the inside by the laminated non-woven Pellon which also serves as a protective layer between the Mylar and the snaps.  Female gripper snaps applied to the collar lining are unacceptable.

g.	The outboard side of the standing collar is to be covered with a whipcord fabric, as specified by the design specifications.

h.	The whipcord fabric is doubled over the top of Mylar base, along with the two layers of collar lining, and stitched along the top edge.  This 4-layer construction results in a "beaded" edge and serves as a protection all along the top edge of the liner.

i.	A single layer of fusing tape or bridle-tape is not sufficient protection in this area and is not acceptable.

j.	The bottom edge of the standing collar is to be sewn through and through, to attach the double layers of Cramerton lining to the outer layer of whipcord.  This row of stitching is immediately below the bottom edge of the Mylar foundation.

k.	Construction of the collar in this manner provides the most dimensionally stable garment, without the additional rows of needle holes.

l.	Braid trim, fabric welt, and embroidery must be applied to the outer fabric of collar, before assembly.  This prevents sewing the trim “through” the Mylar core with additional rows of needle holes.

3.	COLLAR LINER  (see illustration #2)
a.	The fabric used in the construction of the washable snap-in, replaceable liner is two layers of VISA treated polyester whipcord.  The VISA treatment offers soil release properties in this washable area of the garment.

b.	The liner is to be die-cut in a curve to allow it to lie properly against the neck of the wearer.

c.	There are seven female gripper snaps evenly spaced and secured through both layers of liner fabric.  These are to match up with male gripper snaps on collar lining.

d.	The top, bottom and rounded side edges of collar liner are to be bound with a finished binding of non-absorbent Cramerton fabric.

e.	There is to be a bartack at each end of the binding.  

f.	The liner is to be positioned to extend 1/8" above the whipcord collar fabric.

g.	Each liner is to be sized to corresponding collar and numbered to match coat size.

4.	BUTTONS / BUTTONHOLES
a.	High-quality metal buttons are to be used where specified and are to be attached by sewing, ring and washer, or toggle and washer.

b.	Buttonholes are to be manufactured using the cut-first method.  The hole is to be cut-first, and the edges are to be covered with gimp and twist to cover the fabric and inner canvas edge.  The back of the buttonhole is to be closed with a bartack reinforcement.

5.	BELT TABS
a.	Belt tabs are to be die-cut, two piece, and reinforced with heavy duty Pellon.

b.	Tabs are to be sewn, turned, and top stitched for strength.

6.	SHOULDER LOOPS
a.	Shoulder loops are to be die-cut to insure uniformity and are cut in two pieces.  Shoulder buttons are reinforced with backing buttons.

b.	Shoulder loops are to be reinforced on each layer with Pellon SF134.

c.	They are sewn together on the inside, turned, and topstitched all around the edge for body and durability.

7.	INNERLINING
a.	Both front and back panels are to be fully inner-lined with Pellon.

b.	Half innerlining of the back is unacceptable.

8.	CLOSURE
a.	Unless otherwise specified, overlays are to close over right shoulder with heavy-duty gripper snaps and button / buttonhole.

9.	LINING
a.	Both front and back are to be fully lined using high quality Polyester Twill lining.  White indestructible is available on request.

b.	Its composition is to be 120 x 76 warp and fill which meets government standards.

c.	Overlays lined with rayon are unacceptable.

Illustration #1

Illustration #2